Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
