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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.